Flamethrower

Crazy Inventor

Well-Known Member
Does anyobe have any plans/desigbs for a palm mounted flanethrower? Similar to Shock Slayer's version of his palm mounted one.

I kind of have an understanding of how this works but I need some designs to make it clearer.

This will most likely become a worklog once I get some plans.

Thanks.
 
I dont have any plans drawn up, but Im pretty much the expert on this sorta thing.

The standard design for wrist mounted flamethrowers is pretty simple. (And please note that I hate it and its bad and unsafe and ugly).

Basically it uses the push valve mechanism on the can of butane (Generally standard 1oz size, though these are expensive and small) with a simple pull cord to tie it to wrist flexion. Then a tube, usually standard 1/16th ID RC fuel line, is run from the can to the palm. Then when you pull your wrist back, fuel squirts out. Add a flyback circuit to generate a spark through which your fuel will fly, and bam, flamethrower. However, I do not recommend building this design. Its an unsafe design, uses a (relatively) expensive fuel source, and, really, wont get you that much fire. Of course, the startup cost, of making one like that is significantly lower than what I recommend building. You could walk to the hardware store and probably get everything you need for just shy of $30. I really really recommend against it though. It works, and its fun, but the design has severe safety flaws, mostly because it has no flow control, and is entirely push fit. What happens is, the tube freezes and snaps, or comes off, right at the mouth of the butane can. Now, its relatively unlikely, but this can lead to having a jet of flame flying directly onto your upper arm. The real danger here, is that there is a possibility that releasing your wrist, and shutting off the flow, would then cause a back-flow detonation of the fuel cylinder. Now, like I say, this is unlikely, but would you really take the chance of having a small grenade going off on your arm? Additionally, since there is a total lack of any sort of nozzle assembly, these types have a tendency to burn back and light the end of the tube. That isn't a huge problem, but you can get plastic burns and such on your palms, and you'll have to replace your plastic tube rather often.

My personal designs tend to cost a lot more, but they are far far safer, and more fuel efficient. Unfortunately, I use high precision micro-pneumatic components from a German company, and you need to buy those parts through a broker. However, the safety and versatility they afford me, make it all worthwhile. Plus I can get the stuff to build fittings for propane cylinders and such, allowing me to use cheaper, higher pressure fuel sources. And more fire for less money feels good.

And for the record, I have had a butane cylinder blow up on me. Fortunately, it was 95% empty, and was not on my wrist. It ruptured the can and spewed enough fire that it would have been really unhealthy to have on my arm. would either cut deep into my arm and bathe it in flame, or shot me full in the face with a jet of ~2800°f fire.

In any case, I have to go do some stuff right now, but if you want I can provide far more detail later.
 
As a general rule, The two most important safety features you can have are a proof positive connection with the fuel source (threaded connections good, sliding a pipe over the nipple, not good) and back-flow prevention. I've always used micro check valves (one way flow valves) for my back flow prevention, but they aren't cheap. (last I checked its like $80 all said and done for a check valve, barbed fitting and an precision orifice fitting for a makeshift nozzle)

As far as other fuel sources go, butane and propane are the two most logical choices. 16oz propane cylinders make the most sense, but the fitting is not the simplest thing. (Getting from a standard propane fitting to 1/8th ID fuel line takes some creativity)

When it comes down to it, making a safe, reliable flamethrower is not a particularly cheap endeavor. (a prototype rig I built was around the $300 mark, just for the various fittings. It was pretty extravagant, though)
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Probably has any fitting you would need. The search function, on the other hand, can be difficult to use unless you know exactly what you're looking for. Or if you find plans where people have used this site, they will often just give you the product number. Shipping is pretty fast if you live in the Midwest.
 
What would be better to keep the flow of butane under control (keep it from jumping back into the can,etc...) orifice or valve?
 
A check valve should prevent back flow. An orifice fitting helps focus the spray, netting you more, hotter fire, and it ensures the fuel delivery system isn't flammable, so back-burn shouldn't be an issue. And to be perfectly honest, Ive never looked at if mcmaster has anything small enough for a butane powered rig. (the best fit is 1/16th ID tubing and M3 sized fittings)
 
Nevermind. I can't make it because of the CFPA (Child Flamethrower Prevention Association) a.k.a, my dad. Maybe I'll start my hidden blade quick draw gadget.
 
I have made around 30-35 different hidden blades. They are pretty strait forward if you are good with metal and there is a youtube user that goes by abonude who had the best tutorial I have seen so far.
 
Ah yes. "Hidden blade". One of those terms that lacks definition. I can stick a knife in my pocket and consider it a hidden blade. Though I imagine you mean an Assassins creed style wrist blade? If so, only a double action, double locking one will impress me.
 
I've seen one of wolborg's prop ones before he installed the lock. They're pretty nice. Return spring was sweet. Too bad it only had a plexiglass blade.
 
AbyssPWNS said:
I've seen one of wolborg's prop ones before he installed the lock. They're pretty nice. Return spring was sweet. Too bad it only had a plexiglass blade.
You never saw my good one.
 
Back
Top