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Wouldn't it be easier to just edit the recording, and slow it down / speed it up as required?

Up is on, so I'd bet it's the top two points, or the middle two, if that doesn't work. I've done switch replacement for a MGB, and it's not that hard.

I found that if you break the connectors, you can fix it by using a dremel with a pointy grinding bit (cone shaped) and clear away a contact point on the orange stuff. It worked for me.

I've got to clean some adhesive residue off the side of the light guide, and find a proper camera (iPhone won't cut it), and then I'll post pics.

Aww crap - just recieved one of my SP's, and it's the wrong model. Goddamnit. Maybe I can pull the backlight out and use it for a pocket. edit: GodDang, that was a luck out - the SP must of been a throw-together trash item from a repairer; the shell is a 101, but the screen is a 001! It has a...

Well, lucky I haven't made it worse, then, and only used a microfiber cloth.

Hrm. Being "white" means that the pixel is off, and is probably dead; sorry, it's gone. If it's on, then it's likely "stuck", and there are a few possible fixes. One is to have a program rapidly flash for a while to unstick the pixel, which would be hard to do on a gameboy. (the oscillation may...

Got my (pearl pink :p) broken SP today - first thing I did was crack it open and remove the screen. Then I cracked my platinum one open, pulled out the good screen, and put it in the pink one. Why? The pink case is in much better nick, and the mobo works properly. In any case, perfectly working...

Check the solder points down the bottom part of the screen - you've probably broken a few. As far as I know, it can't be fixed. Someone feel free to prove me wrong.

It helps a lot, yes. If you don't have every layer, in the right order, it won't be anywhere near as good. That said, after a lot of kerfuffling around, (i managed to destroy the first light strip by damaging the solder point) my backlight still isn't great - you can see from the first picture...

You could always pro-sound it, and give it a sweet paint job. Once I get my other SP's, their frontlights are getting jacked for gameboy colours, and the good screen is going into the one with the best case.

May I introduce you to the wonders of an isolation test? http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/?tag=Isolation_Test (I used to work DSL support, this sort of thing works wonders. Yes, it's Australian, but I doubt American DSL works in the opposite direction or something)

Isn't AGS-003 the model number for the battery? The SP models are AGS-001 (frontlight, the one which will work), and AGS-101 (backlit, the one that won't). I'm waiting for two broken ones from ebay, Dang you americans ship slowly. I got a beaten up one from ebay as well, only the charge lights...

I put it there because it's easier. The border is also larger on that side.

http://tweetphoto.com/yra5adtk Yaaay! I managed to do it without *Can'tSayThisOnTV*ing up a screen! Bad iPhone pics ahoy! http://tweetphoto.com/yra5abru The only problem is that the plastic light bar still pokes out slightly, making the right side slightly dark. I can cope.

Dang. I broke another screen fiddling around with it, trying to get it better. Time to check eBay again... :P

Yay! I got this working using the Dealextreme DS lite replacement screens; you need to trim the Dang thing down quite a bit, but it works great, apart from some dimness around where the LEDs project out.

Eh. I'll give it a shot, see if it works.

Eh. It's cool. This was a 'broken' spare, anyway. If I can't fix it, I'll just use it as a dry run for a backlight mod. Is the film on a DS lite screen the same?

Hrm. Looks like the first two layers are polarizing filters, and they work in conjunction. The top, tinted, one gives a funky monochrome invert if you angle it right, though.