I'm working on something

hailrazer said:
ShockSlayer said:
Also: case = sanding epoxy/bondo + a bit of cutting with the dremel, which is very straight forward. An electric sander with multiple grits, and a good high speed dremel is all you need. Sure, you can be very slow with it, and take your time, but with the proper tools: 10 hours of work = 40 hours of work, and it's impossible to tell the difference. It's not comparable to working with the electronics.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but this is why your cases don't turn out so good :)

There is no way using an electric sander or dremel will get you as good a case as hand sanding. It's the ability to feel the flaws, the high spots and low spots , through the sandpaper that makes it where you get a smooth case. With electric tools you wind up grinding to much off or not enough.

Well, what do you use ?
I use sandpaper 280 and then 600 and to make a perfect finish 1200.
 
Well, you can spend an hour hand sanding after using the tools(like I did) and dow hatever you need. bt as long as you use a fine grt, you won't grind too much off. I can guarantee this.

SS
 
I use 80 grit to get it down quick. Then it's 180 to form it. Then 320 to smooth it. After I have all the imperfections gone, it's a series of 320 , 600, 800. Then after the second to the last coat of paint, I hit it with 600 then 800 then 2000. Then final paint coat.
 
hailrazer said:
I use 80 grit to get it down quick. Then it's 180 to form it. Then 320 to smooth it. After I have all the imperfections gone, it's a series of 320 , 600, 800. Then after the second to the last coat of paint, I hit it with 600 then 800 then 2000. Then final paint coat.

2000 ???
Isn't that a bit OVERKILL? :eek:
 
Nintendott said:
hailrazer said:
I use 80 grit to get it down quick. Then it's 180 to form it. Then 320 to smooth it. After I have all the imperfections gone, it's a series of 320 , 600, 800. Then after the second to the last coat of paint, I hit it with 600 then 800 then 2000. Then final paint coat.

2000 ???
Isn't that a bit OVERKILL? :eek:
Not even a little.
2k will give quite a nice finish.
 
I'm in the Automobile Body Repair Industry. And 2000 grit is what we use to wet sand out scratches and scuffs. And it gets paint extremely smooth. You want a smooth factory look finish, then 2000 grit it and clean it off good right before your final paint coat. :)
 
overkill.jpg
 
βeta said:
HOLY JESUS OFF TOPIC ECKSPLOSION.

Is "the difficulty of GC wiring vs Case construction" on topic?

If so

The wiring is something that is very difficult (10 hours was a good estimate but more for the DD) BUT the nice thing about the GC is that its basic. It becomes the easiest thing in the world after you've done it once or twice.

Case will always be hard IMO. But hard in a different way. Your case design will almost always change even up to the finishing touches of your GCP (assuming you care about your case). And no matter what, the tediousness of the case isn't ever going to go away (assuming you care about your case). It will always take a long time (assuming you care about your case).

- this all goes under the assumption that you care about your case
 
Eh, think what you want.

I've made a lot of portables in my time so I'd have to say the DD is even more of a Sega to work with than any case, because atleast you can visually see whats wrong with the case. :dah: To be honest, the thing that makes the wiring much harder than the case is the troubleshooting. I mean, with a case, all you need to do is add more epoxy and then sand it, ect. With the GC, it could be anything.

Anyways, I've made three, and two had really nice cases. At this point it's all just a matter of opinion, neither side can be right! :p

I'll unlock this when I have my finished pics and video. :)

SS
 
Wouldn't the LM386 give you more room? I thought my name was gonna be carved into your portable! :gonk:

Lookin good, can't wait to see it finished!
 
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