Gebby's Slim Xbox Laptop

What ever happened to this?

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I thought that was a Dang good idea.

Anyway, I'll see if I can come up with anything for ya in my free time Tim.
 
I didn't want to have the entire PSU external. It just feels wrong.
 
You can't use a picoPSU with a 1.6, and a 1.6 has the simplest PSU of all the xboxen.
I'm actually looking at some of the regulators from zenloc's custom regulator right now. It seems like they could do the trick, too... without as much thought and effort on my part.
I didn't realize they could output as much as they can. Holy flax.

Looking at things again:
http://www.ti.com/product/ptn04050c

The 3.3v line is only used to tell the xbox to turn on, so it doesn't need a big beefy regulator, a small linear regulator would likely do the trick.

For the 12v line, I could use the ptn04050c, it would *barely* get the job done, though.
I would use another one to power the screen. If that doesn't work, I could figure out something else, I'm sure. NJYTouch says they need a 4A supply, but I highly doubt that from what I've seen.

I could then have that 12V output control the 5V line, and have the 5V line control the 3.3v linear regulator to tell the board to turn on.

SO... diagram of what I'm thinking.. soon...

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YAY flaxTY INCOMPLETE SCHEMATICS!
 
I bet you can use a picopsu with a 1.6, you'd just have to be creative. At least, I cant think of a reason it wouldn't work. All the same hookups are there, even if they're layered a bit more and in a different layout.
 
But why do it when it's way overkill, has a lot of bits I don't need, has to be converted like crazy, and takes up more space than a TI regulator, a linear regulator, and a few transistors?
 
I wonder if 2x stock GC regulators wired in parallel would push enough amps to power an XBox. Its got all the voltage lines you need and they are even fancy switching regs, so they'd (likely) stay nice and cool. Dims of 2 of them stacked together would be roughly 5cm x 6cm x 2.5cm. I can wire one up as so and ship it to ya to try if you want Tim. Would be awesome if it worked.
 
It would be pretty awesome, but it still feels painfully inefficient, seeing as the xbox asks for something like 18A on the 5V line, and that GC regulator is still based off of a 12V input.
On top of all of that, I would still need it to handle the PSON and PSOK signals appropriately, so there would likely be extra circuitry thrown in there.

Now, if were were just looking at making a slimbox with the same footprint, that sounds like a GREAT way to help with keeping it all nice and cool inside, and it would let you get things insanely thing if you put those side by side and a laptop drive next to them, all fitting in the footprint of the original PSU. The best part being that you're reusing stuff you otherwise wouldn't be.

I honestly plan to mod a computer PSU to get a 25A 5V supply to run all of this, seeing as the other option for that supply is paying something like $250. At that point, I might as well start looking at batteries. :p
 
I'm pretty sure you could just input 3.3v to the PSOK line and have a switch on the input voltage to turn it on. I've actually turned my lab supply all the way up to 30v and the GC regulator happily chugged away. I didn't realize the XBox was that power hungry on the 5v line though. Jesus.
 
Alright, so I did a bit more looking into this and found some nice info on the actual power draw of the Xbox.

Actually, the 120 watt picopsu is a bad idea.

The reason being, that the Xbox motherboards (all versions) draw most of their current off of 5V, not 12V.

So, when searcing for a repalcement PSU, wattage does not really matter, what matters is how much current it can supply on the 5V line, the xbox tends to use a lot.

I have done a lot of work and experimentation with powering Xboxes from DC-DC power supplies such as this (I even MADE my own power supply), so trust me here.

From my tests, during normal operation, the Xbox only uses about 60 watts. This can drop even more is you are using a 2.5" HDD, no dvd drive, etc. However, the majority of this current is on 5V, up to 8 or 10 amps.

So, according to the datasheets, the 60W picopsu Sicknasty used can actually supply more current on 5V than the 120W one, even though the 12V current is substantially less (but if you are using no dvd drive and a 2.5" hard drive, the current draw on the 12V is next to nothing, the motherboard only uses 12V to power the fans and one or two small chips), so it's actually a better choice for the Xbox.

From: http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=660228

So, If the XBox only wants 8-10amps from the 5v line during normal operation a custom regulator is totally feasible. I would go for dual PTR08100's for the 5v line though, as taxing the flax out of a regulator is never a good idea. That'll give you 20amps to play with on the 5v line. Add in another PTR08100 for whatever the 3.3v line wants and get yourself a nice 5-6amp 12v power brick and take the 12v you need to run the fans right from that. I'm willing to bet inputting the correct voltage to the POWON and POWOK lines directly from the regulators will allow the unit to just turn on and therefore be switchable by a switch on the input power. You should test this theory with the stock reg Tim, just to see. It would be pretty easy to just jump those two lines with the proper voltage and plug it in to see if it powers on. ;)
 
So, I got bored of relocating old caps with tiny leads, and did the same thing I did with my 360: I bought new ones instead.
They'll be here in a couple of weeks. I'm pretty excited.

Also, I should have two of those lovely VGA cables Ashen found coming in the mail like... Tuesday.

Sometime soon, I'm going to get some Acetone so I can mix up ABS cement to hold the case together.

Basically, I have a few other cooler projects in the pipeline, but I need to get off of my arse and finish this one first.

With the VGA cable coming in, the caps, and the research I'm doing on the psu (aka: how the *Can'tSayThisOnTV* transistors work [yeah, that's right, SonyQrio, I don't actually know, I just made you learn it]), I see this project coming to completion sometime within the month. Mostly because I have to wait on flax to ship.

Once I got the caps taken care of, I can put the heatsinks on, and then start to actually test flax, so I'm excited.
 
Looks pretty pimp man. you confirm yet that the board still works? Any luck sorting out your video issues using the adapter board?
 
I have no way to (easily) confirm that the board still works, but at the same time, I see no reason it wouldn't.

Tbh, I haven't had any video issues with this board, only with the adapter cable I tried to build. When it comes to installing one in here, I'll feed it a better 5v supply than the TOSLINK one on the board.

If it doesn't work, I'm not too worried, I have everything I need to start over on it. It's honestly not that much work, I'm just lazy and slow.

Of course, if it doesn't work, I already have a new design planned, and I'd just scrap this one in favor of it. Mainly so you guys stop Segaing about modding it.
 
Mini-update:

I turned it on today. It turned on. Past that, I'm not sure. After about 15 seconds, I started getting blinking green lights. I assume it just thinks the drive is ejected, or is trying to load the absent disk, or something. I'm not too concerned about it.

I didn't hook up video or sound, so I'm not sure if those work. Just wanted to make sure everything turns on and such.

I have a picture and flax, but I don't think it really shows enough to really matter. I can upload it if someone actually wants it, though.

Also, I put a 6 pin power connector on so I could test flax. If I decide to go back to saying *Can'tSayThisOnTV* the custom supply, it may become a permanent feature.
 
So, I worked on it a bit more today. Hardwired RGB out to the xbox, found out that my video board can't take rgb, so I'm grabbing that converter I bought. In the meantime, I'm stress testing it, making sure it stays on and flax when it just sits there. Maybe I'll get to have my video hooked up sometime to see if it's *actually* working.

Also, I keep forgetting about sound. Can someone please keep reminding me that sound exists, and I need to have some sort of method of hearing flax with this thing?
 
First test with video. Everything seems to be displaying fine:
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Now to figure out sound and override the open tray detection.
 
This is really awesome! This work log really makes me want to do something with my xbox. Not a portable more like a recase..:)
As for sound, just get some desk speakers that run on 12volt, or maybe some kind of usb powered ones.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to any more updates:-D
 
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