GC Controller L & R trigger help!

[steveobroil]

Hi modretro community! To be blunt I am here because I am a disabled gamer, meaning that the gamecube controller triggers with the springs are almost too tough for me to squeeze. I have taken the springs out which works great for Wii Virtual Console games as they don't use the analog (i think) setting of the L and R triggers.

Recently I purchased Zelda Windwaker and Zelda Ocarina of time gamecube discs. I went to play them with my controller that didn't have the springs and the L & R buttons are no longer responsive. My question is; is there a way for me to set it up so that I can swap it so that the analog sensor(?) picks up signal from the digital one (which if i haven't mixed them up, is the click down function on the controller). I'd prefer not to have to add the springs back into the controller as it is far too uncomfortable for me to play.

I am very sorry if my terminology is extremely noobish and I hope you can understand my question! I appreciate the help!

~Steveobroil
TL;DR Is there a way for the GC controller triggers to work on gamecube games without the springs that require the analog function (possibly swapping the digital signal to the analog one).

 

[SNEAKxxATTACK]

Maybe it's the grip you have on the original triggers making it too difficult for you to...hehe...pull the trigger.

In all seriousness, maybe you would prefer triggers like the ones shown below? I would assume the mod would entail having slots cut on the rear of the controller to allow full travel of the triggers on the back. I'm saying that you have to put the springs back. I'd say do some make shift mods that won't actually require you to destroy the controller yet. No you aren't using triggers like the ones below you are attaching the buttons of the triggers on the back of your GC controller.

 

[Diminuendo]

is there a way for me to set it up so that I can swap it so that the analog sensor(?) picks up signal from the digital one (which if i haven't mixed them up, is the click down function on the controller).

Actually Zenloc came up with something that does exactly that, you could easily fit all the needed components in an existing GC controller

Here is a little guide to make the gamecube's analog trigger digital without the need of the original analog sliders and make it press the digital shoulder button at the same time. That way you only need one shoulder button tact switch in stead of two.

I suck at drawing so excuse the simple diagram:


Components needed for a single analog shoulder button:

1x 10K resistor
1x BC547 transistor (any standard transistor will do)

Do this mod on both analog shoulder buttons and you will remove the need of the analog sliders which are a pain in the ass if you are making a small portable gamecube. There are only a very few games which actually use the pressure sensitive shoulder buttons that actually effect gameplay so you'll have to live with that.

 

[Diminuendo]

also out of interest whats your disability? maybe we can find a better solution.

 

[steveobroil]

also out of interest whats your disability? maybe we can find a better solution.

I have a rare form of Muscular Dystrophy which is called Ullrich. A condition involved causes my wrists to contract and tighten inward, causing them to look claw-ish. Here is an example that is pretty close to what it looks like: http://i.imgur.com/iLLtbO8.jpg

That positioning doesn't change much, the wrist can't really go back any further without heavy force and even then. This can make it hard to grip and press certain triggers, especially gamecube triggers with how tight the spring is on top of the digital button being pressed.

By the way, thanks everyone for your responses so far, I definitely liked the look of Zenloc's mod. Though if there is easier or better for my condition that you can think of then I am open to more ideas!

 

[Diminuendo]

so what your saying is that really the gamecube controller is the right shape, just you dont have the strength in your fingers to press the springs? or are you suggesting that moving the shoulder buttons would be a better solution. Also how does the Z button affect your play?

 

[steveobroil]

so what your saying is that really the gamecube controller is the right shape, just you dont have the strength in your fingers to press the springs? or are you suggesting that moving the shoulder buttons would be a better solution. Also how does the Z button affect your play?

The shape is fine for me, I have had no issues with that, it's pretty much the springs are too tight for my grip which effects my response time and makes it tiring. The Z button is okay, not the most effective positioning for me but I haven't noticed it effect my gameplay too much.

 

[Diminuendo]

what controller do you use? a wired controller or a wavebird?

 

[steveobroil]

what controller do you use? a wired controller or a wavebird?

wired, one of the later in production the white controller with the 3 metre cable.
I also have a standard purple one that I got with my gamecube years ago, I have taken the springs out of that one also. I primarily use the white one now though as it is newer feeling, though I don't know if there is much else different between the two.

 

[Diminuendo]

I was going to offer to make you one up with one of my spare controllers and send it over to you, or would you be up for this yourself? I'm just so bored with life at the moment I'd love to give this a go.

Edit; what I mean to say is I don't have a 3m controller to give you

 

[steveobroil]

I was going to offer to make you one up with one of my spare controllers and send it over to you, or would you be up for this yourself? I'm just so bored with life at the moment I'd love to give this a go.

Edit; what I mean to say is I don't have a 3m controller to give you

Oh wow! that sounds awesome! I would be glad to cover any costs involved! Cord length doesn't matter to me it was just what was available online.

 

[Diminuendo]

well you can buy extension cables for the GC controllers so you can fix that. I'll use one I have here since I'm Australian so you don't have to pay shipping to get me one.

basically I'll charge you for the controller, ($10ish) the parts and the shipping. I really have no interest in a commission since I'm so bored out of my skull I need something to do.

Random question since I'll be inside the controller anyway; if you could move the Z button anywhere on the controller where would you move it?

 

[steveobroil]

Random question since I'll be inside the controller anyway; if you could move the Z button anywhere on the controller where would you move it?

off the top of my head I can't think of a better place, I did fiddle with the controller and think of possibly underneath the right handle(?) or grip whatever you would call it. Though I worry that if that doesn't work out it'll be a work in vain so may be safer to not move it.

 

[superben51]

What about right in between the X and Y buttons. Just use a long caped tact switch.

 

[Diminuendo]

Random question since I'll be inside the controller anyway; if you could move the Z button anywhere on the controller where would you move it?

off the top of my head I can't think of a better place, I did fiddle with the controller and think of possibly underneath the right handle(?) or grip whatever you would call it. Though I worry that if that doesn't work out it'll be a work in vain so may be safer to not move it.

I can make it so both the existing Z button and the new one I add work, not one or the other, I can give it a go if you want ( might get to CNC something, YAY)

What about right in between the X and Y buttons. Just use a long caped tact switch.

I was thinking between Y and B, and using a start button.

what do you think Steveo?

 

[steveobroil]

I can make it so both the existing Z button and the new one I add work, not one or the other, I can give it a go if you want ( might get to CNC something, YAY)

What about right in between the X and Y buttons. Just use a long caped tact switch.

I was thinking between Y and B, and using a start button.

what do you think Steveo?

Sounds pretty cool actually. It reminds me of how the C buttons were on the N64 and I like that!

 

[Diminuendo]

GC Controller L & R trigger help!

Sweet so where do you want it? Between X and Y or between B and Y?

I'd rather not put it on the back because I have no way to know where your middle finger naturally sits, but if you really want that I can try

 

[steveobroil]

Sweet so where do you want it? Between X and Y or between B and Y?

I'd rather not put it on the back because I have no way to know where your middle finger naturally sits, but if you really want that I can try

Holding the controller in my hand the most comfortable position seems to be between B and Y in my opinion. It also looks like there is more room there for it to fit into as well so they won't be too cramped
On top sounds better so don't worry about that.
Thanks! sounds very exciting.

 

[Diminuendo]

Ok, it's done, my drill was far too slow so I melted the front a little when I added the second Z. I offered to redo it but Stevo didn't care so I don't. It feels a little weird having a standard tact next to rubber membrane switches but it works just perfectly. Spent a couple of days testing since the only thing holding the tact switch in place is hot glue, but it doesn't look like it's going anywhere.

Now the first thing I did is use some single strand copper wire to restrict how far out the shoulders came without the springs, so they arn't just flopping in the wind. You might say that I should use something more durable than copper but since there is no upward force it is sufficent

Here is how the shoulders sit, Flickr doen't seem to like this image so it won't load any bigger for some stupid reason.

And here is the zenloc circuit, the wiring was pretty poorly planed so I had to trim some of the frame for the rumble pack and shoulder buttons but everything does sit fine, I just pray that no-one has to open this thing again.

I'll be sending Stevo the bill soon, which is $15 plus shipping, which covers just parts, no labor. It was really fun to figure out how to make this, but I'd probs not do this without a comission again.